Curious by nature
Australian winemakers are masterfully experimental and endlessly curious, perfecting traditions while creating new ones. Cutting-edge research has helped the Australian wine community to keep getting better. In the Canberra District wine region, science is at the heart of its flourishing premium wine scene that’s given the nation’s capital a name for something other than politics. These days, Canberra is known for making some of Australia’s best cool-climate wines, as well as its fast-growing food scene.
Surrounding the city of Canberra, the Canberra District region encompasses vineyards in the Australian Capital Territory and New South Wales. Undulating hills and distant views of the Snowy Mountains create a scenic backdrop as you explore some of the best boutique wineries Australia has to offer.
There were a few small vineyards planted here in the 1800s but things didn’t really get started until the early 1970s, when vines were planted by CSIRO (Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation) scientist John Kirk at Clonakilla and Dr Edgar Riek at Lake George. They were among a group of wine-obsessed, scientific visionaries who carefully researched vineyard sites, varieties and winemaking methods, and shaped this cooler-climate region.
A contemporary take on classic
Cold winters, hot summers and cool nights contribute to a climate perfect for Riesling and Shiraz, the region’s two top varieties. But there’s much more to discover, including standout Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Viognier, and alternative varieties like Grüner Veltliner, Sangiovese and Tempranillo.
More than 30 contemporary cellar doors make for a welcoming environment to taste Canberra’s best, and a lineup of wine events offer even more excuses to sip. The Canberra International Riesling Challenge has been running for almost 20 years and autumn’s Canberra District Wine Week is a 10-day affair celebrating harvest time.
You can discover one of Australia’s most awarded wines in one of the region’s first wineries. Small, family-run Clonakilla produces limited amounts of handcrafted premium wines, including their celebrated Shiraz Viognier. Founder John Kirk got his hands on some Viognier cuttings – then a rare grape in Australia – through his CSIRO connections in 1986. Several years later his son Tim, inspired by a Côte-Rôtie wine from the Rhône Valley, added a drop of Viognier to their Shiraz, and an icon was born. Some consider it Australia’s best Shiraz.
Another winery exploring lesser-known varieties is Mount Majura, its vineyard planted on ancient soils near the top of the Majura Valley. All wines come from this single vineyard, including a velvety, blue-fruited Touriga Nacional and a vibrant, exotically spiced Graciano.
Joining the established players, you’ll find a new breed of Canberra winemakers ready to try new things. At Ravensworth, Bryan Martin is making wines that stand out: wild, funky and full of character. ‘Weird stuff’ he calls them. He draws on his experience as an assistant winemaker at Clonakilla and degrees in science and viticulture to create distinctive wines using organic principles in the vineyard and minimal-intervention techniques in the winery. Some of his creations are fermented in huge ceramic eggs and his ‘weird stuff’ includes a Grenache, Tempranillo and Graciano blend and a sparkling Riesling made using ancient methods.
With intriguing things happening on the wine and food front, coupled with the city’s long list of cultural and political attractions, there’s rarely been a more exciting time to visit Canberra.
