Cool-climate haven in the hills
As they arrive in the peaceful, rolling yellow-green landscape of the Hilltops, many people are unaware that they have entered one of Australia’s most exciting emerging wine regions. Thanks to its relatively high altitude, Hilltops is a cool-climate region celebrated for its top-quality fruit – think cherries, peaches, plums and apricots, and, of course, grapes.
Vineyards and orchards thrive in rich red soils. In recent years, new boutique wineries have popped up and the area has become important for grape growing, with high-profile Australian wineries using Hilltops grapes to make premium wines.
With its relatively young wine scene, Hilltops isn’t as well known as some of Australia’s bigger wine regions, but its lower profile is part of its appeal. It’s a hidden gem of a wine region where you can meet local producers in a clutch of cosy cellar doors and sample elegant, cool-climate wines.
Around three-and-a-half hours’ drive south-west of Sydney, the Hilltops wine region encompasses three main towns – Young, Harden and Boorowa – filled with gold rush-era architecture, and a string of villages nestled among the hills and valleys. Stop by orchards and farmgate stalls to discover why the area is famous for its stone fruit and spend time at farmers’ markets, antique stores and local festivals.
Rise to the top
Australia’s best-known wine writer, James Halliday, named Hilltops as one of the most significant emerging cool-climate regions in Australia. Its elevation combined with dry summer and autumn months create excellent grape-ripening conditions, and the region’s soils help produce refined wines bursting with flavour.
A wide range of grape varieties flourish here, producing an array of top-quality drops – from elegant Chardonnay and age-worthy Semillon to bright Shiraz and interesting alternatives including Gewürztraminer, Barbera and Nebbiolo.
Cabernet Sauvignon is a star wine – somewhat surprising given the cool temperatures (Cabernet needs plenty of warmth to fully ripen). But vineyards have been planted on the hills to avoid frost and capture extra sun, which allows Cabernet grapes to mature, resulting in powerful yet elegant red wines with good ageing potential. You’ll also find a range of dessert and fortified wines, including unique blends made from local stone fruit. For something different, look out for small batches of cherry wine.
Grapes are thought to have been first planted here in the late 1800s by Croatian settlers, while the modern era of winemaking kicked off in the early 1970s. One of the Hilltops’ best-known wineries, Grove Estate Wines, was established by three families in 1989, though vines were originally planted on the property in 1886. Their wine range includes Shiraz, Zinfandel and Primitivo, which you can taste at the award-winning cellar door.
At Chalkers Crossing, acclaimed winemaker Celine Rousseau is crafting some of the region’s best, including Riesling, Semillon and Cabernet Sauvignon, from grapes grown in a former plum orchard. Other wineries to look out for include Lockwood Vineyard.
If you’re after an authentic country experience with vibrant, cool-climate wines and incredible produce to enjoy, Hilltops has it in spades. A small and charming wine region with a bright wine future, this is a region to watch.
