Ageing gracefully
Many Melbournians are surprised to learn that there’s an exciting and historic wine region just 30 minutes’ drive from Melbourne’s CBD. Established as a wine-producing centre in the 1850s and 60s, and then revived by a modern wine community in the 1970s, the Sunbury wine region is home to rich history, elegant, age-worthy wines, unspoilt countryside and a burgeoning food scene.
Just beyond the ever-expanding reaches of Melbourne’s north-western suburbs, you’ll encounter the steep hills, deep valleys and woodlands of the Sunbury wine region. It lies at the eastern edge of the Victorian Volcanic Plains, one of the world’s greatest volcanic plains, covering 10% of the state. Volcanic deposits around 65 million years old give the region its unique soils and these contribute to distinctive wines.
Antarctic-influenced winds sweep across the plains and valley floors, helping to create a cool, dry climate with a long ripening season that produces elegant yet full-flavoured wines. The region’s relatively small crop of family-owned vineyards and wineries produce a range of varieties and wines, but Shiraz is the standout. Elegant, spicy and peppery, these wines promise to age gracefully for many years. Other top varieties include Chardonnay, Riesling, Viognier and Pinot Noir, along with alternative varieties such as Nebbiolo and Sangiovese.
Historic region reborn
When James Goodall Francis, a former State Premier, planted vines in the Sunbury wine region in the late 1850s, he became one of the first to grow grapes in Victoria. The area, which was a stopover for many on their way to the Bendigo gold rush, quickly became a grape-growing hub. Winemaking ceased in the early 20th century, until the 1980s when a couple of trailblazers revived the region’s two oldest vineyards – and the modern wine community was born.
One of those wineries was Craiglee. In the 1950s a bottle of 1872 Craiglee Shiraz was unearthed, and its impressive quality – almost a hundred years later – inspired Patrick Carmody to replant a vineyard there in the 1970s. Today Craiglee produces some of the region’s best wines, with a focus on Shiraz, Viognier and Chardonnay, which you can taste in the cellar door housed in the original bluestone winery.
Craiglee isn’t the only winery producing award-winning drops. Sunbury stepped into the global spotlight in 2008 when Witchmount Estate’s 2004 Shiraz was named the top Shiraz in the world at the Syrah Du Monde competition in France. Founded by Italian-born Tony Ramunno in 1991, Witchmount also grows Chardonnay, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon.
For another taste of Italian heritage, there’s Galli Estate, which uses organic practices in the vineyard and a gentle approach in the winery to produce wines such as Nebbiolo, Sangiovese and Tempranillo, along with classics like Shiraz and Chardonnay.
Australia’s incredibly diverse wine scene means you can find brilliant wines all over the country, and those willing to wander off the beaten track are often rewarded with exciting discoveries. An easy drive from Melbourne, the historic Sunbury wine region is a worthy addition to any Victorian wine tour.
