Valleys undiscovered
Australia has its very own version of the ruggedly beautiful Pyrenees – except this one is filled with kangaroos. Taking its name from the famous mountain range between Spain and France, Victoria’s Pyrenees wine region is a stunning collection of valleys and sub-valleys that come to life with spring’s fluorescent flowers. Comprising the southern extension of the Great Dividing Range, the region’s almost 50 small vineyards are hidden among the foothills, between ever-present eucalyptus trees.
For all its beauty, and proximity to Melbourne, the region has an undiscovered feel about it, which makes a wine tour of the Pyrenees intimate and relaxed. Spicy reds are the main game, along with a growing range of standout sparkling wines. There are welcoming cellar doors dotted throughout, and taking the similarities with the European region further, you may spot locals indulging their passion for petanque (the French version of boules). Round one corner and you’ll encounter sweeping views; another and you’ll spot a rustic cellar door where the owner will pour you a splash to sample.
The region’s name came from European explorer and surveyor Thomas Mitchell, who found the region’s blue-hued ranges reminiscent of the Pyrenees of his home continent. Grapevines were first planted in the 1800s, then things came to a standstill until French brandy producer Rémy Martin established his eponymous chateau (now Blue Pyrenees Estate) to make wine for distillation into brandy. These days, the Pyrenees is an important region in Australia’s boutique wine scene. And with funding from the state government to boost wine tourism, the region is going from strength to strength.
Pyrenees wines: handcrafted and diverse
You’ll find most vineyards and cellar doors located in and around the main towns of Avoca and Moonambel, charming with their historical shopfront facades, traditional country pubs and a range of eating and accommodation options. Many visitors time their trip to coincide with April’s Pyrenees Unearthed Wine and Food Festival, when the weather’s getting cooler and the grape harvest is ending.
Whether you prefer bold reds or aromatic whites, you’ll easily find wines to love. Grapes grow well in the brown sandy soils and temperate climate, which features plenty of sunshine and cool nights. Red varieties in particular thrive here, producing powerful yet elegant Shiraz and full-flavoured, age-worthy Cabernet Sauvignon wines, as well as the classic Australian blend Cabernet Shiraz. On the lighter side, there’s acclaimed Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, and the region is increasingly known for its traditional method sparkling wines.
Excellent sparkling can be found at Taltarni Vineyards, one of the region’s pioneering wineries. Owner John Goelet is a descendant of a Bordeaux wine merchant family, and he bought the property in the late 1960s after searching the world for a site with similar characteristics to Bordeaux. In what was once described by wine writer Robert Joseph as “one of the most beautiful vineyards on the planet”, John grows classic and alternative varieties, including Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, and is leading the way in environmentally sustainable practices.
Other important wineries in the region include Berrys Bridge and Amherst, which both handcraft premium wines made with grapes grown onsite. The Amherst vineyard is planted in an old goldfied that’s been farmed by multiple generations of the same family. At Mount Langhi Ghiran, you’ll find one of Australia’s coolest Shiraz vineyards, among the last to be picked in the country, and a range of award-winning wines.
Untouched beauty, premium wines and an atmosphere of hospitality: it all adds up to a haven for photographers and wine lovers and a bright spot in Australia’s wine community.
