Fascinated by the history and mysteries of wine, winemaker Alex MacKenzie is helping to keep tradition alive in the Barossa Valley, while making his own mark in a long-standing winery.

Born and bred in Melbourne, it wasn’t until Alex went to France as an exchange student that he discovered the joys of wine. He was initially captivated by the vineyard and studied viticulture, before gradually crossing over into winemaking. He worked in wineries in France, Italy and Germany and in wine regions across Australia, including in the Clare Valley, where he was chief winemaker at Annie’s Lane. In 2017, he joined Saltram, where he makes everything from bright Fiano to rich reds and fortifieds. He also became custodian of a legacy.

Crafting wine for the ages

When Alex joined Saltram, he became only the 10th winemaker in more than 160 years. A renowned name in an iconic region, Saltram was founded in 1859 and became known for its rich, intense wines, especially Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as fortifieds. 

“I’m pretty proud to be that 10th winemaker,” says Alex. “They’re big shoes to fill.”

Alex has immersed himself in the winery’s heritage, reading through old winemaker journals and tasting his way through the cellar to better understand the legacy that’s now in his hands.

“Saltram produces wines which will age really, really well,” he says. “We pride ourselves on wines which are cellar-worthy.”

 Working with century-old grapevines and crafting fortified wines that will last for decades has shaped Alex’s approach.

“I’m making wines for 50 years’ time, in a way,” he says, “So when the next winemakers of Saltram are looking at these fortifieds, hopefully they’ll be able to have the options and the wines to put together to make something really spectacular.”

With his background in viticulture, Alex is a winemaker whose work starts in the vineyard.

“Wine has to be an expression of that season,” he says. “I get out in the vineyard and taste the fruit as often as possible, so I actually get a feeling for what’s happened in the vineyard building up to harvest.

“In the winery, it’s about trying to maximise the quality without pushing it too far. Sometimes you need to do less. You can always do more, but I think sometimes it’s knowing when to just sit back a little bit and let the wine express itself.

“Everyone has a different technique, a different way of looking at things. And I think if you keep true to that, then that’s always going to lead to good things.”

“I’m fascinated by the mystery of wine. From how it’s made, to when it’s bottled, to how it evolves, and how it keeps on breathing a little bit... It’s a living thing.” – Alex MacKenzie

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