Grape-growing paradise
One of the world’s most geographically isolated wine regions, Margaret River is an oasis of unique plants and animals. Many of its plant species are found nowhere else in the world. In this long, narrow stretch of land, hugged by the Indian and Southern oceans, forests give way to vineyards, which stretch to the sea. Once a sleepy community of surfers and dairy farmers, Margaret River transformed in less than 50 years into a premium wine heavyweight, where visitors – who sometimes outnumber locals – come for picturesque wineries, world-class beaches, ancient forests and caves, and an abundance of local seafood.
Margaret River has built a global reputation for its outstanding Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon thanks to two scientists and a tenacious community of trailblazing winemakers – many of whom had never made wine before. Today there are around 150 wineries producing more than their fair share of premium Australian wine.
The first step in establishing Margaret River as a world-renowned wine region was taken by Harold Olmo, professor of viticulture at the University of California. He was working in the nearby Swan Valley wine region in 1955, and wrote a report suggesting the south-west might be better suited to growing grapes. A decade later, agronomist Dr John Gladstones backed up Harold’s opinions with evidence after researching the south-west’s maritime-influenced Mediterranean climate and soils perfect for growing exceptional grapes.
Amateurs become industry leaders
Margaret River’s first commercial vineyard, Vasse Felix, was planted in 1967, and from the first batches of wine a few years later, the region quickly established itself as one to watch. This is even more impressive given that many of the region’s first winemakers were newcomers to the industry. The founders of three of the best-known wineries – Tom Cullity of Vasse Felix, Bill Pannell of Moss Wood and Kevin Cullen of Cullen Wines – were all doctors.
Leeuwin Estate is another of the region’s top wineries, but it almost didn’t get off the ground. Founders Denis and Trish Horgan bought the land that’s now the Leeuwin vineyards as part of a plumbing business in 1969. It was a grazing property then but they weren’t sure what to do with it, so they left it untouched for four years – until US-based Robert Mondavi, a wine-world legend who put California’s Napa Valley on the map, expressed interest in buying the property. With Robert interested, Denis and Trish knew there must be something special about it, so they decided to plant vines in partnership with him.
In the early years, Robert advised the couple to plant Chardonnay, which was much less common in Australia at that time. This led to Leeuwin Estate’s most iconic wine, the ‘Art Series’ Chardonnay, which showed that Margaret River could make wines to rival the world’s best – and it still sets the benchmark for Margaret River Chardonnay today.
Diversity, sustainability and innovation
Visit the region and you’ll discover a new generation of producers who have joined the established icons and are redefining what Margaret River wine can be. Vineyard owners are increasingly taking advantage of the unspoiled environment – a number of the vineyards you see as you drive through the scenic region are being farmed using organic and biodynamic methods. It’s a philosophy that’s echoed in wineries too, where minimal-intervention winemaking is a growing trend and cellar doors offer a range of styles to taste.
One of the region’s best-known producers, and a founding family of the modern Australian wine community, Cullen Wines has been a proponent of holistic growing practices for more than 40 years. It was the first winery in Australia to be certified 100% carbon neutral and has recently started applying this minimal-intervention approach in their wines, releasing their first extended skin contact ‘amber’ wine to great acclaim.
It all adds up to a fascinating region that offers the chance to experience some of Australia’s best wines and produce against a backdrop of pristine beaches, eucalyptus forests and ancient caves. It’s a place where prestige and fame haven’t come at the expense of the region’s down-to-earth soul.
