Terroir trendsetter

Back in 1979 when Brian broke ground in South Australia’s Piccadilly Valley, the premise of planting certain grape varieties in the regions where they were best suited was a revolutionary one. Brian pushed the idea of terroir-driven wine – one of his biggest contributions to Australian wine – and today it’s a widely accepted notion at the heart of all our premium regions. Brian grows Chardonnay for Tapanappa Tiers Vineyard in the cool Piccadilly Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon in the slightly warmer Wrattonbully near Coonawarra and Pinot Noir on the foggy Fleurieu Peninsula just 8 kilometres from the ocean.

For his industry leadership and contribution to research and education, Brian has been made an Officer of the Order of Australia and named Decanter Man of the Year, among a long list of other winemaking accolades. Then in 2016 he was named Gourmet Traveller’s Viticulturist of the Year. “I know I’m regarded as a winemaker – and a technical winemaker by the way, which I’m not at all – but viticulture is what I’ve always been about,” he said after receiving the award.

A strong start

It all began in the heart of the Clare Valley wine region, where a young Brian watched trailers of grapes trundle past his primary school window. In high school he was influenced by his headmaster (the son of the Archbishop of Canterbury no less) who had migrated from what was then Rhodesia to get closer to the source of Australian reds. Brian was most intrigued by the science behind wine, and he studied horticulture rather than oenology because it meant he could follow his fascination of biochemistry, microbiology and plant physiology.

Starting his career as a winemaker with Thomas Hardy and Sons in 1969 was an auspicious beginning, and he went on to found a winemaking consultancy and develop the wine science course at Charles Sturt University in New South Wales. As a consultant and an educator, Brian had a huge influence on Australian winemakers in the 1970s and 80s, mentoring up-and-comers and shaping the community. He was Deputy Chancellor of the University of Adelaide for eight years from 1999 and was made a Doctor of the University for his service, having received a similar honour from Charles Sturt University

Wineries leading the way

In the mid-1970s, Brian and his wife Ann launched the Petaluma winery, which went on to become a beacon for modern Australian wineries and wine brands. Petaluma and its vineyards were sold in 2001 but in recent years the Croser family was able to buy the original Petaluma Winery at the bottom of the Tiers Vineyard and rebadge it as Tapanappa Winery. They have always owned the vineyards in the Piccadilly Valley. Over the past 16 years or so, Tapanappa has evolved into a highly respected family company from vineyard to market, with Brian’s daughter and her husband managing the business and his other son-in-law looking after the winery facility, cellar door and IT. 

Now in the third major chapter of his impressive career, and with a list of awards, achievements and experiences longer than most in Australian wine, Brian’s got a little more time to enjoy his other passions of family, football and reading. He lives at the Tiers Vineyard in Piccadilly Valley with Ann, back where it all began and with a great view of everything he’s achieved. But he hasn’t taken his foot off the pedal. The natural-born leader is still hands-on in the Australian wine community, helping to drive quality and share Australia’s fine wines with the world.

*Brian Croser is a Board Member of Wine Australia.

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