The founder of Castagna vineyard and winery in Victoria’s Beechworth wine region, Julian has been a pioneer in many ways. He was an early proponent of biodynamic viticulture, helped to promote Sangiovese and championed a lighter, more elegant Shiraz style. His humble, low-intervention approach to winemaking produces bright, lively wines that are served in some of the world’s best restaurants.
A force of nature in Australian wine
When Julian planted his first ever vineyard in the late 1990s, his vines were attacked by beetles. He bought the recommended chemical treatment, but when he read the instructions about needing to wear protective gear because it was so toxic, he thought, “This is crazy. I’ve changed my life to make one of the world’s serious wines and I’m about to destroy the soil. That can’t be right.”
This propelled Julian down the path of biodynamics, which is similar to organic farming but also factors in the effect of cosmic forces such as planets and the moon.
“By the time we’d solved the [beetle] problem, I was hooked,” he says.
Julian’s focus on holistic farming and enhancing the vineyard soil reflects his winemaking philosophy.
“I don’t like the term winemaker; what I am is a wine grower,” he says. “I think that wine is made in the vineyard, not in the winery. Lots of people who make very good wine would disagree with me, but for me, the secret is just to let the vineyard tell you its story.”
The story of Julian’s vineyard began when he decided to leave his career in advertising – he’d established a film house in Sydney in the mid-1980s – and move with his wife Carolann, a film producer and writer, to the country. Born in Italy but a resident of Australia since he was two, Julian had also lived in London and worked several vintages in France.
Today Castagna is a renowned winery that’s helped put Beechworth on the wine map, and Julian’s son Adam is an important part of the business.
“Twenty-two years ago, when I started, everybody thought I was crazy,” says Julian. “I guess perhaps I was a little... I hope that I have been partly responsible for helping Australian winemakers make wines that aren’t necessarily part of the norm.”
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