On an unspoilt stretch of land on South Australia’s scenic Limestone Coast, Derek Hooper of Cape Jaffa Wines is showing the world how good wine can be when you question the traditional conventions.
Derek is at the forefront of the budding Mount Benson wine region, which is building a reputation for its innovative makers and sustainable vines. He’s a trailbreaker rather than a traditionalist, experimenting with new ways of growing grapes and handcrafting wine, and refusing to be held back by convention.

Winemaking favours the bold

Derek’s passion for winemaking started when he was a teenager helping out at his parents’ vineyard on the outskirts of Coonawarra. Things got serious several years later when he ran out of money on a surfing trip and found himself working at a winery in Western Australia’s Margaret River. In the early 1990s, he and his dad jumped fences through the Limestone Coast looking for a property to buy.

“The Limestone Coast has got so much to offer,” says Derek. “A diverse range of wines and people. Everyone’s pretty interesting down here, a bit quirky. The coastal areas have got fantastic beaches, and there’s a lot to see and do.”

Around 25 years on, Cape Jaffa Wines – the first winery in the emerging, cooler-climate region of Mount Benson – is a beacon for innovative, biodynamic wines. Growing grapes in such a pristine environment means Derek can let nature do much of the work. His vineyard became the Limestone Coast’s first certified biodynamic vineyard in 2008, and after winning several awards for its sustainability initiatives, Cafe Jaffa was inducted into the Advantage SA Sustainability Hall of Fame.

Derek is also shaking things up in the winery, producing award-winning, sought-after wines.

“I like the concept of being able to come up with new flavours and new ideas, and each year we’ve got a different project that we play around with,” says Derek. “We can do what we want. Australia is such a great place for being able to push the boundaries on style.

“We’re pretty hands-on, handmade, and I hope that when people drink our wine they can really get a sense of connection with where we are, on the coast here in Mount Benson.”

“We can do what we want. Australia is such a great place for being able to push the boundaries on style.” – Derek Hooper

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